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SIL trade show presents lingerie trends for Fall/Winter 2024-25
The Salon International de la Lingerie (SIL) trade show celebrated its 60th anniversary this year with a buzzing three-day winter session, also featuring several runway shows, held at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre in Paris on January 20-22. FashionNetwork.com has scouted the most significant trends seen at the show, selected among the collections exhibited at stands that were mostly rather open - especially those by the main brands, previously more self-contained - allowing visitors to view products more easily. “Since the last two seasons, we have opted for an open-space layout, having previously gone for an enclosed stand, to open up more opportunities,” said Lise Charmel. It was a message broadcast also by the event’s new organiser, WSN, which in 2022 was charged by Eurovet with running the show.
In the last few seasons, lingerie’s colour palette has extended beyond the classic white, black and red, and the Fall/Winter 2024-25 collections seen at the show marked a revival of the colour green. Not a bright meadow green, but more muted shades like forest green and an almost golden olive colour. “Often, these choices are based on ready-to-wear trends,” said Cecilia Esteves, marketing and influence coordinator at the Wacoal lingerie group, which offered gourmet treats at its stand. Subtler shades like burgundy and plum are instead gradually supplanting red.
Flowery embroidery, a classic and not just for the summer season, proved to be extremely popular. “Rather than seasonal collections, we’re now operating with drops that are not strictly classified as summer or winter. This enables us to make quicker deliveries, and take greater risks in terms of style,” said Frédérique Bertin, a member of Lise Charmel's sales team.
Floral motifs also featured in the collections by the designer and emerging brands exhibiting in the ‘Exposed’ section, such as long-standing French brand Cadolle. Just opposite, at La Nouvelle’s stand, leopard-print patterns were prominent in a collection distinctive for its pared-down lines, without frames or wiring. Animal-themed prints also enlivened many of the loungewear outfits exhibited at the show, mirroring a dominant ready-to-wear trend.
With regards to bra shapes, sport was an influence in many collections, as was the search for maximum comfort. Cups with little underwiring were for example a notable feature at Aubade, a brand renowned for its sophisticated models “This product is in high demand, since it can fit all silhouettes,” said Samar Vignals, head of brand and sourcing at Aubade. The brand is aiming to rejuvenate its clientèle and is fine-tuning a new store concept for 2025.
A few instances of asymmetry could also be glimpsed among the collections, in what is otherwise a highly standardised, conformist lingerie sector. For example at Chantelle, notably on a black lace bodysuit, but also at emerging brand Un cri de joie, which has patented a fully modular bra system, making it possible to change size and design for each individual cup by means of clips.
A bolder note was struck by the lace jumpsuit presented by Aubade, whose black stand featured a dance pole. The jumpsuit was designed in collaboration with model and author Cindy Bruna. “This kind of product, encasing the entire body from head to toe with sheer fabric, is new for [Aubade]. It’s a strong, spectacular item, a mark of this capsule collection’s boldness,” said Vignals.
A product like this can boost brand image in a market whose players need to deploy high-impact advertising, to retain their audience and attract new consumers. According to Kantar in fact, sales in the French lingerie market fell by 1.8% in January to October 2023, compared to the same period in 2022, down to €2.12 billion.
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